Background on who Matt was and our 15 hour car-to-car climb of the North Arete can be read in this trip report. LINK HERE
Coincidental, in the preceding days to this trip I was at work reading this month's edition of Climbing, only too read a full article on the progress of the search for Matt. I couldn't help but think of him and our great conversations that 15 hour day while I was out on this trip.
Again, I won't go into detail about the Bear Creek Spire since I wrote a full spread about the mountain in my June 2012 report. I was looking to sneak in a technical alpine climb in the midst of this summer trying to crush the California 14ers. I put out some feelers on the internet and got a lot of interest for the my original objective - East Arete Mount Humphreys. However, after several emails back and forth about the scale and approach to Humphreys we decided to scale back a bit to the more accessible Bear Creek Spire. Since I had already done one classic route, guess it was time to tick off the other classic - Northeast Ridge.
Alright, here is SuperTopo's write up:
- "Many people debate which BCS route is more classic; the Northeast Ridge or the North Arete? The Northeast ridge follows a striking ridge line while the North Arete ascends the most dramatic arete on the face. Both routes are awesome...."
Croft's The good, the Great, and the Awesome:
- "This is one of the very best class 4 routes in the High Sierra."
Well then OK...here is Mark Thomas's annotated route photo:
(Photo Credit: Mark Thomas)
Saturday August 6th 2016:
The previous day Kristine and I had driven in from Fresno and camped down at French Camp which is located at the base of Rock Creek. I awoke at 4:45 from camp and did my my normal morning routine of oatmeal and coffee. Kristine drove me up to the Mosquito flat trail head by 6:00am where I met my climbing partner Paul for the day.
I was some what familiar with this approach from 4 years ago and we discussed varies ways to approach the mountain once the trail stops at Gem Lakes. It was determined we would use what I guess is the normal XC approach opposed to the alternative one which was the one I used 4 years ago. Although this approach was shorter, it involved more boulder and talus hopping. (Oh boy!)
Above: Paul is seen walking in the morning coolness with the BCS shining away.
Below: Once past Dade Lake (11,200') we made a direct line for the low saddle on the northeast ridge. Two college kids from LA were leading the charge and can been seen as well.
Above: The last couple hundred feet to the saddle on the NE ridge.
Below: 9:50am, we reached the saddle and begin the NE ridge proper. At first it's nothing more than class to 2 with some 3 here an there.
Above: Endless class 3 as we approach the "First Tower".
Below: Bypassing the First Tower is the technical portion of the climb. Incredible granite fins can be climbed on towers left. We found these fins to be no more than low 5th and continued to both solo the route.
Above: More granite fins as we work our way up the ridge. The ridge eventually joins the North Arete which can be seen. We found the climbing no harder than 4th class to the occasionally low 5th move. We could wonder left or right of the ridge proper to keep it that way so no need to rope up.
Below: This is the last portion of the NE right prior to joining the North Arete, steep groves were just amazing to jam and stem up.
Above: The final ridge traverse over to the summit.
Below: Looking down towards Gabbot Pass, Mount Gabb, and Lake Italy. Day #3 of last years trip to the Mono Reccess had us go over Gabb Pass. Read about here.
Above: After taking the "5.8 variation" and 4th class ramp to the west side of the ridge like my previous trip 4 years ago, we had the final 100' to the summit block. Triple cracks can been seen on the far right. I choose the center crack and found it 5.7.....little stout for approach shoes.
Below: Peter about to mantel the unprotected 5.6 summit block.
Above: Summit at 1pm. 7 hours since leaving the trail head. Great views of the Little Lakes valley (Rock Creek).
Below: A much better summit shot of me from the previous time when I had my giant Go Pro on!
Above: Although we had soloed the entire NE ridge (not planning, just turned out that way) we opted to rappel off the summit block past the triple cracks to 3rd class ledges. For the first time today, I put on my harness.
Below: The descent route was same as my previous trip and I still was familiar with where to find the "notch" that drops back into Rock creek from the west. Slushy snow made for a good couple of hundred feet of glisading as well.
Above: The loooong talus/scree/boulder descent both destroyed us. Many breaks were taken but eventually at 5:30pm we both reached the trail again.
Below: It took us about an hour to hike out back to the trail head. The little lakes valley of course is very scenic full of fisherman and backpackers.
12 hours and 20 minutes after starting we got back to the trail head. Both exhausted but extremely happy about the amazing day in the Sierras. This being my 2nd summit of the BCS I can add some insight on the mountain and the two routes. For starters, I'm done doing car-to-car of this mountain, then again I said that after the 1st summit. I meet three climbing parties backpacking into Dade lake to spend the night. I knew they had the right plan! This was also my first alpine solo. Although soloing is dangerous and generally stupid, it is hard to explain to people who do not climb that there is a time and a place for it and it fact....could... be the safer course of action. I found my solo of the NE ridge quite enjoyable. With the exception of the triple cracks, I not once felt I was unnecessary risking anything. With all that said, this doesn't open my world to soloing alpine routes. Quite from it, knowing I had a partner and with a full safety system if I choose to use it really made the difference for me. Not having any of that at your discretion would be truly soloing.
The NE ridge was extremely fun. Part of me did miss a little bit if technical challenge, but then again that wasn't why I came to climb this route. If I had wanted that, go back to the North Arete. I don't think I'm done with this mountain. The East Ridge (5.8) looks pretty amazing too! I'm going to have to read up on it...
- http://www.supertopo.com/tr/Bear-Creek-Spire-E-Ridge-An-Overlooked-Sierra-Classic/t12258n.html
- https://www.mountainproject.com/v/bear-creek-spire/105806064
Until next time...Keep chasing those Marmots!
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