Hobbit Book - 5.7R

Monday June 20th 2016:

It had been almost two years since the last time I climbed with my normal partner Ivy. In fact, our trip in September of 2014 to Temple Crag was out last outing. We made plans to rally for two days of climbing in Tuolumne Meadows with day one objective of the classic Hobbit Book on the Mariuolumne Dome.

Pictured below is an route topo of not only the Hobbit Book but the popular climb OZ on the lower Drug Dome. We would not do this link-up but instead another climb on the far right low side of the Drug Dome to link to the base to Hobbit Book high on the Mariuolumne Dome. 

(Photo Credit: Denis O'Connor)

Ivy and I meet up at the dirt pullout for the Mariuolumne/Drug/Lamb Domes in the heart of Tuolumne Meadows climbing land at 10:30am.

The approach trail took us by the Lamb Dome and then eventually to the base of the Drug Dome. 

Above: A large snow field clung to the base of the Drug Dome which was still icy and make our uphill trek slow and somewhat treacherous.

Below: We struggled to find the comical route know has Euro Trash which we had planned to use as our warm-up/approach climb. With that said, the entire far right side of the Drug Dome is just small ledges and slab. We ended up soloing a long time not quite sure where we where.

Above: After a couple of hundred feet of soloing 4th and low 5th class we can across too much exposure and pitched out the last roof of of the Drug Dome. As it turns out I think we soloed the route known as White Trash. Mountain Project gives it a "Avoid Bomb" in the Stars category.... I can concur. After that, it was a short walk over to the start of Hobbit Book.

Below: Okay, Pitch 1 (my lead) of Hobbit Book is seen below. Low angle corner/crack to lie back around the roof.

Above: Looking back down at Pitch 1.

Below: Looking down pitch 2 (my lead again) which was a 5.7 corner with bulges and cracks.

Above: Enjoying the view from the belay at pitch 3.

Below: This is pitch 3, Ivy's lead. Pitch 3 is the crux pitch with the run out between the 1st (and only) bolt placed on the face and the next piece of gear that could be put it. Mountain Project said 100' run out while SuperTopo said 60', we found it to be closer to 80'. The climbing it typical Tuolumne steep knob/plate pulling on face. With that said, this pitch is VERY run out and was impressed with Ivy for keeping her head.

Above: A good shot of me following the run out pitch 3 on Hobbit Book.

Below: Pitch 4 of the climb. This involved a steep corner and a delicate move around the roof pictured. The route finished perhaps 20' beyond the roof. 

Above: After topping out we enjoyed great views of the whole Tuolumne area.

Below: Tenaya Lake and Peak in the background.

The descent off the top of the Mariuolumne Dome is a long drawn out slab which drops into the forest on the backside of the dome. Since snow melt was in full effect we had to navigate snow drifts and plenty of creek crossings. However, we were treated to excellent views of the Fairview Dome.

After what seems like forever, we arrived back to the dirt pullout on the road. Total time to approach, solo most of White Trash on the Drug Dome, and climb Hobbit Book with decent was 8 and a half hours.
Although a pretty cool route, I didn't particularly enjoy the run out (and I wasn't even leading!) on the this route. We hurriedly packed up and drove down the the Mobile Mart in Lee Vinning for the world's best fish tacos!

Tuesday June 21st 2016:

After spending the night Lee Vinning campground we opted to climb the uber classic South Crack on Stately Pleasure Dome for the 2nd time.

Above: South Crack is known for the obvious crack (5.8) but of course there are the two seriously run out slab pitch at the end. Send in old' Slab Master Slaven to finish it off.

Below: Fine views as always of Tenaya Peak and Lake.