The lesson learned from last year was too not drive AND do the approach hike to the lake in the same day. So the plan was...
- Day #1: Drive to eastern Sierra and camp out near the trail head.
- Day #2: Spend the day hiking the Red Lake trail to the lake and have a leisurely camp out.
- Day #3: Climb Split via "North Slope from the East (Red Lake Pass - class 3), hike out, drive home.
Unlike last year, the Sierra snow pack was closer to a normal year. I've read reports ranging anywhere from 70 - 90% average for the year. I expected mostly continuous snow from the lake up and well as good consolidated snow for crampons as well. The weather forecast had a low pressure over the 4 Corners regions bring instability for a change of thunderstorms. However, the forecast didn't indicate there would be too much moisture nor high winds with this weather pattern. Guess we'll see...
Our original plan was to leave Sunday the 15th, however I was still under the weather from some kind of sinus issue plus possibly the worst sunburn I'd gotten since I was a kid only a few days prior. We delayed our launch a day which in retrospect turned out to be the best with weather still being an issue.
Monday May 16th 2016:
Nate and I loaded up in my Taco and drove off to the east side. We stopped briefly to grab a wilderness permit in Lone Pine and dinner as well. Keeping it pretty civilized, we camped out at Tinemaha campground which is a pretty off the beaten path county camp conveniently on the same road as the "shortcut" to Red Lake trail head.
The weather that afternoon on the east side wasn't the best. The Sierras were clouded over with storms and even a few drops reached the Owens valley. Pictured above is the our evening view from Tinemaha campground of Split Mountain (almost concealed by the storm).
Tuesday May 17th 2016:
A breezy night lead to clear skies in the morning. Split Mountain is a pretty cool looking peak. Not only is it split in color it has the huge East Couloir down the middle of it too. One hell of a trip report about skiing the east couloir here. Here is another cool report with some amazing photos. Not for the faint of heart either, two professional skiers got killed in an avalanche back in 2011, report here.
As one might recall from my write up last year the the road to the trail head is a serious undertaking. More than likely this is a 4WD route however the "shortcut" route I found last year on my way out is 2WD but requiring some serious clearance rolling over rocks.
The shortcut also cuts offs about an hours worth of crappy driving to get to the trail head. However, it was debatable if this route goes through private property or not. I've now crosschecked this route with another map of Owens valley and have determined the 'path' is actually on BLM land. In fact, the road with the locked gate is the private property path. I suppose it is fair to say the traverse of the abandoned quarry is private property but lets not split hairs here.
Shortly after 9am Nate and I were loaded up off on the trail.
The mornings clear skies had already gone away as the clouds built up over the back county.
Above: Nate cruising along the lower section of the unmaintained Red Lake trail.
Below: The view from the lower Red Lake of Split Mountain. Although the weather looked threatening, it never actually did anything. It took us about 5 and a half hours to hike up to the lake.
Above: There were only a few flat sites by the lake that didn't have snow. This was my second use of my new primary backpacking tent Marmot Limelight. No complaints!
Below; Looking back out our camp along the upper Red Lake. What an amazing evening it was! Clouds would blow by paired with the bright moon that night made for a pretty cool light show on the frozen lake.
Wednesday May 18th 2016:
I'll admit, when I went to sleep the night before, I though we might be climbing through the clouds and crappy weather. When my alarm went off a little after 4am, I awoke to a perfectly clear morning with no wind! The stoke was high - the Mountain was granting passage! By 5:15 we were off. No need for headlamps that morning either.
Above: Nate ascending scree above the lake. The route to "Red Lake Pass" climbs up to the right into the higher bowl. From there a 3 class chute goes over a low spot on the crest joining the North Slope.
Below: Alpine glow on the east face of Split Mountain. Not sure if it gets better than that. East Couloir is seen in the middle. Split Mountain has two summits, North and South. The north is the higher one pictured just to the right of the east couloir. Coming straight down from the north summit is the East Arete of the North Summit (III 5.8). Pretty cool summer trip report here.
Above: Looking back on the Red Lake.
Below: This is the upper bowl. In fact Red Lake pass is seen not as the low spot but actually the small gap coming off the ridge from the left.
Photo Credit: Nate
Above: Initially, the snow was crunchy and hard but I was surprised how quick it got slushy. This picture was taken about 2/3 the way up to Red Lake Pass.
Below: Nate putting in the work kicking steps in the slush. The gap to the left of the rock nob is the pass.
Above: We reached the pass at 8:30 and were treated to a pretty cool sight. The crest between Upper Basin and Tinemaha drainage has some huge snow cornices hanging off!
Below: The Southeast Ridge (Class I) of Mt. Prater (13,329')
Above: A view of Nate again putting in the work up the North Slope. From the pass is 1,000' of endless soft snow.
Below: Looking back on me and the saddle that is Red Lake Pass. Birch Mountain (13,665') can be seen in the background. Very far off across the Owens Valley and is the White mountain range. Been there....
Photo Credit: Nate
The last 500' were killer for me. Guess I'm getting old and out of shape? Fortunately, Nate kicked nice steps in the way too soft snow. I just buried my head and focused on breathing for each step. At 10:45am, 5 and a half hours after leaving the tent, we topped out on the summit of Split Mountain. This was my 11th California 14er.
Above: Summit of Split Mountain (14,058') with the lower south summit and east arete.
Below: Nate's summit shot. Not pictured: His fanny pack.
Above: I'll spare you guys of endless back country photos I took but take a good look at this pic. The peak in the far right is Middle Palisade (14,040'), Mt Sill in the middle (14,153'), and lastly North Palisade (14,242') on the left. BEEN THERE ALL!!!
Below: Heck of a view of the East Arete of the South Summit (IV 5.9).
We hung out on the summit for about 20 minutes. Given the time of year, it was actually not that bad up there. Not too cold and no wind to speak of. The trek down the north slope went of course much quicker down than up and before long we had arrived back at Red Lake Pass. Although the snow conditions were too slushy for prime climbing, it was perfect for butt snow glissadeing. That is a fancy word for sliding on your ass. Nate and I enjoy close to a 1,500' glisade down from Red Lake Pass.
Above: Nate in mid ass slide.
Below: That's a beautiful butt grove.
By 1:15, 8 hours after leaving camp we arrived back to our tent. Both of us were pretty burnt. Funny how Secor's Peaks, Passes, and Trails claims that, "After Mount Whitney, this is the easiest 14,000 foot peak in the Sierra". I'm not sure I would second that statement. We flaked out for awhile then packed up and started back down to the car. Last year the hike out took me 2 hour and 40 minutes, this year it was well over 3 and a half hours. Not only was I beat, my feet were done being in those boots. Pictured below my new backpack! This was its inaugural run after retiring my old Black Diamond Speed 55. This was the new Black Diamond Mission 75. So far, can't compliant. It is definitely heavier but not only does it carry more it carries the weight better! That was my chief complaint with my old bag was that although it could carry 40lbs, it hurt my shoulders to do so. You'll note that it has an external pouch for my crampons, cool stuff.
Once we got back to the taco, we loaded up and drove the shitty 45 minute road out to the highway. So glad, I won't be going back to do that again. Ehh...I might be back for St Jeans Couloir, but not my truck.
Once again we stopped for food in Lone Pine then off back to Fresno by 1am. So to recap my climbs of California 14ers....
- Mt. Whitney - July 2009
- Mt. Shasta - May 2011
- Mt. Williamson - June 2011
- Mt. Sill - May 2012
- Mt. Russell - June 2013
- Middle Palisade - July 2013
- Mt. Muir - August 2013
- Mt. Langley - June 2014
- White Mountain - June 2014
- North Palisade - August 2014
- Split Mountain - May 2016
That leaves only one remaining!
- Mt. Tyndall
It felt great to be back out in hills and to get a major climb in for the season. I want to thank Nate for yet another fun trip to the hill!
-Aaron
